Another backpacking trip in the north of Sweden

This post was actually meant to go out before we headed out but I just didn’t have time to publish it. Too much time spent weighing the options in terms of equipment (pun intended, see below :)

As we got hooked on fjällen last year, Karin and I early on decided to go backpacking in the north of Sweden again. This time, we met up with my dad and brother at Arlanda airport and flew together up to Kiruna where we took a taxi to Abisko Fjällstation and ate an excellent as well as extensive vegetarian buffet there (Karin felt very lucky!)

Next morning, after a steady breakfast, we started hiking and for two days followed Kungsleden until reaching the Alesjaure cabins. At that point, we headed off along one of the unmarked trails along the Unna Visttasvággi valley in order to reach the Visttas cabin. From there, we headed up another valley to the Nallo cabin. After which we split up for a while. Jens and Olle headed to down to the Sälka cabins to rest a day while Karin and I took a detour to the remote and alpine Unna Räita cabin.

After Unna Räita, we went down to Sälka where the cabin host argued strongly against going up Koupervaggi and ending up at the Tarfala cabins. In retrospect, we should’ve trusted our guide book but at that point we didn’t know and decided to go by what he said. So we followed Kungsleden and the trail to the Kebnekaise cabins where we split up once again. Jens and Olle were going up to the top of Kebnekaise and Karin and I headed towards Tarfala.

Going to Tarfala turned out to be a really good choice. From there we headed “straight” towards Nikkaluokta by starting with going up a steep mountain side consisting of only loose rocks but we were lucky and met up with a crew from the research station who led us up an easier path than the regular one. The top of that pass is absolutely beautiful. One one side, you have views of steep, snow-covered mountain tops and glaciers. One the other side, you’ll have all the gentle sloping hills you can wish for.

The last couple of days we spent on these beautiful hills sloping towards Nikkaluokta. No path, just immense open spaces in front of us.

All in all, camping around the 1000m mark has become our definitive preference — alpine but not too alpine.

Our packing list for this year improved a bit (but far from the amount the checkbook says ;). Our most appreciated new piece of gear were our NeoAir 120cm sleeping pads. Crazy light and really, really comfortable when you fill them with just enough air.

Backpacking light (or not)

Backpacking light? Not really.

Tentative hiking plan

Our tentative plan (which did change)

Wearing:

Items Weight (g)
Hanwag Tatra GTX boots 1690
Norrøna Nansen pants 380
Houdini Comfort Stretch Belt 54
Outdoor Research Bugaway Bucket, medium 80
Icebreaker Bodyfit 200 wool T-shirt, small 164
Smartwool Adrenaline Light Crew wool socks, large 72
Teko organic EcoMarino wool liner, large 51
Smartwool wool underwear, medium 92
Glasses 22
Suunto T4 watch 50


Carrying:

Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian backpack, 62L regular 1770
Granite Gear Cloud Cover Pack Fly, medium 104


Living and sleeping:

Hilleberg Nammatj 2GT tent (w/o poles and pegs) 2525
Western Mountaineering Ultralite sleeping bag, 6′6″ 853
Granite Gear Air Block Solid compression bag 87
Exped pillow 66
Therm-a-rest NeoAir, small incl. bag 280
Seat/footpad 69


Clothes:

Norrøna Falketind GTX Paclite jacket 384
Norrøna Falketind GTX Paclite pants 306
Houdini Power Hood, medium 476
Patagonia R.5 top, medium 208
Houdini Speed Crew II, medium 132
Icebreaker Superfine Ultralite t-shirt, small 137
Patagonia R.5 tights, medium 148
Icebreaker boxer briefs, medium 104
Craft boxer briefs, medium 74
Houdini Power Wrist Gaiters (love these!) 26
Houdini Toasty Top Hat (love this!) 25
Icebreaker wool liners 59
Sealskinz waterproof gloves 80


For the feet:

Salomon Techamphibian 2, stl 44 632
Seal-skinz Mid-light waterproof wool socks, large 107
Smartwool liner (2) 83
Smartwool PHD socks 93


Eat and cook:

“Kåsa” cup 52
“Kåsa” cup, 0.8L 81
“Kåsa” foldable cup, small 22
Titanium spork 16
Nalgene bottle, 0.5L 92
Platypus 2L 40
Primus gas canister, 230g 366


Dry-bags, etc.:

Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil, 4L 26
Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil, 8L (2) 68
Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil, 1L 17
Plastic bags (3) 50


Miscellaneous:

Gipron Expert hiking pole 256
Sea to Summit mosquito head net 30
Whistle 6
Dry-bag, toilet paper roll and iPood Pocket Trovel 279
Sea to Summit cloth 30×60cm 36
Eye-pad (?, for sleeping when it’s light out) 8
Money, plastic cards 27
Shoecream 33
NeoAir patch kit 11
Outdoor Research accessory strap 22
Spare glasses and case 86


Books, maps, etc.:

Map (BD6 Fjällkarta, cut) and bag 48
Claes Grundsten’s book “På fjälltur: Kebnekaise till Abisko: turbeskrivningar 158
Björn Larsson “Drömmar vid havet” book 141
Moleskin notebook 35
Pen 9


Camera equipment:

Sigma DP2 300
Sigma DP2 batteries (2) 60
Spare memory card 4Gb 2
Osprey Digi-Stow, large 67
Gorilla pod 44
Polarization filter and case 40


Food:

Real Torskgryta 130
Real Stenbitsgryta 162
Real Lapskojs 138
Real Viltgryta 143
Pad Thai 256
Various kinds of oatmeal mixes (10) 1253
Home-dried green lentils 86
Home-dried cherry tomatoes 60
Varma koppen Minestrone soup (3) 78
Varma koppen vegetable soup (2) 34
Varma koppen Bilberry and raspberry soup (2) 62
Varma koppen Apple and cinnamon soup (3) 102
HoneyStinger Cherry Blossom (2) 112
Tea bags (15) 46
Vitamins (10) 12
Home-dried leek 10
Home-dried carrots 40
Snickers 60
Kexchoklad 56
Whisky, Auchentoshan 12 years 356
Pumpernickel bread 291
Cous cous 134
Parmesan cheeze 342
Dried bilberries 85
Dried Goji berries 26
Raw sugar 59
Dried cranberries 106
Cashew nuts 67
Tiramisu (thanks Anna :) 127
Jelly Belly Extreme Sport Beans, watermelon (caffeine!) 32
Jelly Belly Sport Beans, lemon lime 31


Hygiene:

Toothpicks 7
Deodorant 15
Tooth brush 21
Toothpaste, 1 tub 30
Deodorant wipes, 15st 37
Earplugs 3
Lotion 25
Schampoo 28
Lipbalm 11
Soap 27
US622 Anti-mosquito wipes (10) 35
Dental floss 1
Bag 15


All in all, 15981 grams carried including backpack. When we started from Abisko we noticed Karin was carrying as much as me so we gradually moved stuff over to my backpack during the hike.

Karin’s packlist

Backpacking!

Click the above to see the Flickr notes on what Karin is bringing.

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